2019 Cantina Margo Regio Bianco (Macerated Trebbiano)
Region: Montefalco < Umbria < Italy
Grapes: Trebbiano Spoletino
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Organic/biodynamic farming; vineyards on Pliocene-miocene age lake bed, marl, clay and limestone soils; de-stemmed, 6 days skin contact, no temp control fermentation in stainless steel and fiberglass, then aged in 20% neutral oak and 80% stainless steel; bottled unfined/unfiltered with no added So2; zero-zero; 13% ABV
Winemaker: Carlo Tabarrini
We love discovering grape varietals, while also learning something new in the process. Like this obscure white grape, Trebbiano Spoletino, from Umbria, which grows around the hilltop towns of Montefalco and Spoleto, near Perugia. The confusing thing is that Trebbiano covers a whole host of Italian white grape varieties, unrelated to one another – and most of which suck, known for producing vast quantities of dull, flabby whites. Blame Trebbiano Toscana, aka France’s Ugni Blanc, for that. But (and here’s the “learning something new” part), Trebbiano has many faces, exceptions to the dull Trebbiano rule, that make some pretty cool wines. Like Marche’s Verdicchio, which also happens to be the Trebbiano found in Soave, Lugana and Abruzzese. The third is our star here, Trebbiano Spoletino. None are genetically related, nor do they taste alike.
Carlo Tabarrini was practically raised in his family's vineyards. His grandfather grew grapes and made wine, as most Italians do, for family consumption. In 2005, Carlo started Cantina Margo with a small .5 hectare parcel of abandoned and neglected vineyards. In 2016, after rehabilitating and growing the estate, he became fully invested in wine production. His goal is simple: "to ferment grapes in peace without the use of too much technology". Carlo wines showcase the purity and beauty of Umbria utilizing organic and biodynamic techniques.
The 'Regio Bianco' is skin-macerated Trebbiano Spoletino, a rustic, textured orange wine with rich tropical fruit, bitter almonds, and sour orange/orange zest and a chalky, mineral-driven finish. Orange fans take note, this is teeny tiny production and offers unique and soulful taste of Umbria.