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2021 Sophie Siadou Valençay

2021 Sophie Siadou Valençay

Region: Valençay AOP < Loire Valley < France

Grape: 30% Pinot Noir, 35% Côt, 35% Gamay

Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Biodynamic farming; “Caillouteuse” (gunpowder
flint/silex) soils; fermentation in neutral oak then aged 18 months on
its lees in older, neutral barrels; bottled unfiltered w/ minimal
added So2; 12.5% ABV

Winemaker: Sophie Siadou

Light, fresh, crunchy fall goodness, with spicy, herbal forest feels
on a racy mineral backbone!

Best known for its famous pyramid-shaped goat cheese, the Valençay area of France’s Loire valley, due outh of Cheverny, also produces an equally awesome (if much lesser known) array of wines. Geographically, Valençay is separated into two main areas, each straddling either side of the Modon, a winding tributary of the famous Cher river. Originally founded in 1960, the Jourdain estate has been run since 1990 by Sophie
Siadou and her partner Francis Jourdain. Sophie originally came from Avignon to work on a goat farm, where she met Francis, and remained in Lye to raise a family and make wine. Together, they biodynamically farm 28 hectares of vines, from which they craft their brilliant range of honest, regionally-expressive wines reflecting their holistic approach to the ecosystem of the vineyard and careful attention to the nuances of her terroir.  The soil here is “Caillouteuse” (gunpowder flint / silex), which results in bright, flinty whites derived from Sauvignon Blanc, and— as evidenced by this exquisite blend — crunchy, silky, high-acid reds made with the region’s three main varieties: Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Côt (the local name for Malbec).  Although the winery functions as a family affair, it was Sophie’s natural wine leanings that informed this specific bottling that bears her name.

Sophie’s Valençay is the first example of this small appellation that we've ever tasted, and we were blown away.  The flinty soils of the Loire Valley appellation of Valençay give their wines a finesse, perhaps even a chalkiness, which is evident in the texture here. And there's an almost electric vibrancy, like those minerals are lighting up the wine. While you get the lightness and elegance of its high percentage of Pinot Noir, plus juicy red fruits from the Gamay, the dominant note is its leaner, more structured Côt (Malbec) side, with those green, herbal, spicy notes that remind us of a light Chinon.  A classic table wine, intrinsically designed for drinkability, it would be fabulous with roast chicken, Mexican food — or, even better, a nice chalky slice of Valençay cheese.

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