2021 Deep Down Wines SB Single Vineyard Marlborough
2021 Deep Down Wines SB Single Vineyard Marlborough
Region: Marlborough < New Zealand
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified organic farming with biodynamicpractices; winery certified organic; silt soils over gravel; fermented
in stainless steel, allowed to complete natural malolactic
fermentation, then raised in a mix of old wood and stainless steel;
bottled unfined/unfiltered with minimal So2; 12% ABV
Winemaker: Clive Dougall
NEW VINTAGE!
Deep Down Wines is a new project from biodynamic wine veteran Clive
Dougall, president of the New Zealand organic wine growers
association. He explains the difference between his wine and your
average NZ SB: "The pristine fruit comes from Murrays Vineyard, at the
base of the hillside offering silt soils over gravels. Most SB is
grown on gravel, known locally as Greywacke stones, and these produce
high acid wines with high tone aromatics. Silt soils offer grapes with
more restraint, a softer texture (slightly talc-y), and more subdued
aromatics. Organic fruit which typically ripens two weeks earlier than
conventional, and offers more fruit concentration at lower alcohol. Re.,
winemaking, a number of local producers offer a reserve wine that is
wild fermented but we are the only outfit we know who employs a wild
ferment for their standard Marlborough SB. This is both conventional
and organic producers. I know, ridiculous! Also, we let the SB work
through malo which is unheard of – everyone here protects the fruit,
yet our aim is to tone down."
So whereas most SB from this area is dialed up way past 11, almost
blinding you with those intense flavors (you know, the cat pee, grass,
jalapeno, grapefruit, etc.), the Deep Down approach is to ‘turn the
volume down’ so that no single character shouts out and demands
attention. Because they believe that the balance of fruit/acid is key
to enjoyment and digestibility. We couldn't agree more, and love that
you get the classic NZ terroir in this wine, but it isn't one-dimensional or overwhelming. It smells lovely and aromatic, tropical fruit and basil. The palate has texture (but not oak or excessive gloss), with classic SB notes of gooseberry and grapefruit along with green herb notes and balanced acidity. If you're a zippy mouth-puckering Sauv Blanc fan, this is the pinnacle.