2020 Beuer ‘In Der Luft’

2020 Beuer ‘In Der Luft’

Regular price $25

Region: Württemberg < Germany

Grapes: Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer

Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Biodynamic farming (Demeter-certified since
2008); limestone, Sandstone, Keuper soils; fermented and aged in
stainless steel; bottled unfined/unfiltered with minimal added So2;
12.5% ABV
Winemaker: Jochen Beurer

Riesling blend for cool kids with a killer label that pays tribute to
the vigneron's BMX-riding days!  The bottle looks fun and natty, but
the juice is precise and refined.

Jochen Beurer is an interesting character -- an ex-European BMX
champion and all around bad boy, he's now a hard core biodyanmic
farmer who crafts wines of a sort of brutal purity: crystalline,
stony, structured expression of rocks and stones.  The small estate is
located in Swabia (Baden-Württemberg), at the farthest southern end of Germany. Here the Beurer family has farmed the land in Kernen, just
outside of Stuttgart, for generations. In 1997, Jochen, his wife
Marion, and father Sigfried set out on their own, making and bottling
the wine for themselves. For the first two years, the winery literally
was a garage. In 2003, Jochen started experimenting with organic
farming, finally converting fully to biodynamics (Demeter certified).
His focus within his work centers around looking at the farming of the
grapes in the most holistic sense. From the animals, insects,
vegetation and animals in his environment, he pays attention to how
they are all working in synergy, and how that relationship feeds the
vines he farms.  Everything he does in the cellar is super natural and
hands off, which is rare in these parts.  And the wines are stunning.

Like this unfiltered, energetic blend of Riesling, Chardonnay,
Gewürztraminer and probably some other things, cloudy and pale gold, that smells like crisp Bosc pears and wet forest.  There's so much lift and energy here, like the BMX soaring through the sky on the
label (which is Jochen, BTW), amid a complex bundle of lime zest,
stone fruit and white flowers.   Don't let the aromatic grapes fool
you, this wine is the opposite of sweet and sticky --  bone dry, with
a fluffy marshmallow-like texture, it tastes like crisp, barely ripe
pears frolicking in a flowery meadow.  As the back label says, "pair
with good times!", to which we might add, "and your holiday feast",
because In Der Luft (which means 'in the air') will go with everything
on the table -- and make everyone, from the cool kids to Aunt Jan,
happy.

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