2019 Oltretorrente Bianco Colli Tortonesi

Region: Colli Tortonesi < Piedmont < Italy

Grapes: Cortese, Favorita, Timorasso + trace amounts of Moscato Bianco and Giallo

Winemaker: Chiara Penati and Michele Conoscente

Milanese agronomists Chiara and Michele are the couple behind Oltretorrente (translation: countercurrent), which they started in 2010 with just 1.5 hectares of vines in tiny Paderna, on the steep foothills of southeast Piedmont.   The slopes are so steep that machinery is impossible to use, so by default the vines are tended the old-fashioned way - by hand.  The couple has worked hard to restore their soil, going beyond organic farming to plant grasses, cover crops and loads of other plants to regenerate fertility.

The Bianco Colli Tortonesi is a beautiful field blend of local grapes, sourced from all of the estate's parcels.  It's clean and crisp, with structure and a surprising amount of gravitas for the price.  It is intensely mineral driven, tasting like an infusion of rocks and Golden Delicious apples, with a hint of honey.  Bone-dry, zippy acidity, pretty golden fruit - the perfect early fall white, for food or enjoying on it's own.