2019 Kolfok 'Querschnitt' Rotburger & Co.
Region: Burgenland > Austria
Grapes: Rotburger (aka Zweigelt) + a touch of Sankt Laurent, Blaufränkisch, Blauburger, Syrah
Vineyard/cellar stats: Organic farming with biodynamic practices; volcanic, schist and loam soils; whole cluster carbonic fermentation then aged in large, neutral Austrian barrels; bottled unfined/unfiltered with minimal So2; 12.5% ABV
Winemaker: Stefan Wellanschitz
Kolfolk loosely translate to "an unconventional thinker". Stefan Wellanschitz is the unconventinal thinker behind the winery, taking a 19th-century estate and throwing tradition to the wind. Stefan was born into wine, with his historic family estate in Neckenmarkt dating back to the early 19th century (when Burgenland actually belonged to Hungry, not Austria). Marking a clear break from his family's traditional style, Stefan launched his own wine project in 2013 with a more natural, low-tech approach to winemaking that showcase the soils and unique character of his region.
This is Stephan's field blend of mostly the Rotburger grape (the politically correct name for Zweigelt; Dr. Friedrich Zweigelt, the fellow who bred this grape was a major Nazi, and although the grape he developed is worthy, his reputation, not so much. Hence the name change.) Rotburger isn't a famous grape - in Austria it's the workhorse. But here, berries were gently fermented whole cluster to encourage carbonic maceration, gentle extraction and heightened aromatics, resulting in a wine more reminiscent of Cru Beaujolais than of a country workhorse.
Light and savory with dark, wild-berry fruit, tart hibiscus, iron-like minerality, and vivid energy, this reminds us of a great Morgon with an alpine flair. And such a killer value. Stock up for fall festivities.