2019 Kolfok 'Intra! the wild'
Region: Burgenland > Austria
Grapes: 70% Gruner Veltliner, 30% Welschriesling
Vineyard/cellar stats: Organic farming with biodynamic practices; volcanic, schist and loam soils; fermented "intercellularly", meaning fermentation begins in the intact grapes (basically carbonic); bottled unfined/unfiltered with minimal So2; 12% ABV
Winemaker: Stefan Wellanschitz
Kolfolk loosely translate to "an unconventional thinker". Stefan Wellanschitz is the unconventinal thinker behind the winery, taking a 19th-century estate and throwing tradition to the wind. Stefan was born into wine, with his historic family estate in Neckenmarkt dating back to the early 19th century (when Burgenland actually belonged to Hungry, not Austria!) Marking a clear break from his family's traditional style, Stefan launched his own wine project in 2013 with a more natural, low-tech approach to winemaking that showcase the soils and unique character of his region.
'Intra! The Wild' is a blend of traditional white varietals Gruner Veltliner and Welschriesling -- grapes that tend to be on the leaner, slightly aromatic side but Stefan's use of the intercellular fermentation technique creates texture and complexity on the palate. Based on the label and first sip, you might be thinking skin contact wine, but the palate surprises with a level of focus and brightness not usually found in orange style wines. Bone dry with notes of tangy citrus, underripe stone fruit and white flowers, there's also an interesting textural component of the finish gives it flexiblity for pairing with heartier foods. A super cool -- and limited production -- bottle for the wine nerds out there.