2019 Progetto Calcarius 'Roz' Rosato
2019 Progetto Calcarius 'Roz' Rosato
Region: Apricena < Puglia < Italy
Grapes: Nero di Troia + Aleatico
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified biodynamic farming; rocky, limestone,
marble soils with calcified seashells; 4-day maceration in stainless
on the skins with no temperature control; unfined/unfiltered with zero added SO2;
zero-zero; 10% ABV
Winemaker: Valentina Passalacqua
Valentina Passalacqua, the woman behind Progetto Calcarius, is a trailblazing young natural winemaker and a leader in biodynamic agriculture in Puglia since 2000 - unusual in a region not exactly known for biodynamic, no sulfur wines, or woman-led wine projects. She took over her family’s land (used only for cattle grazing since
1900), located inside Gargano National Park, to create a diverse farm
that includes indigenous grape varietals. Her family considered the
land too difficult, too poor, for crops, not realizing that they were
actually sitting on a precious marble mine – or soil that happens to
be amazing for vines. The rocky, mineral-rich soil does not retain
water (also great for vines), and proximity to the sea means cooling
breezes and ventilation (another plus). Valentina’s wines are pure,
elegant, never soupy as you sometimes see in wines from Puglia (it’s
hot there). Because, she is careful about canopy management (to ensure
grapes don’t get cooked) and picks early to retain freshness and
acidity.
This is her rosato of Nero di Troia and Aleatico, a vivid, textural blend that drinks more like a baby red than mindless rosé. It smells sweet, like ripe cherries and strawberries, but the wine is bone dry. Tart, citrusy notes, like kumquat and blood orange, balance the juicy cherry fruit, extra-bright acidity and minerality. Drink chilled but not
icy cold, with an aperitivo snack spread or grilled veggies.