2018 Rosi Schuster St. Laurent
Region: Niederösterreich < Austria
Grapes: St. Laurent
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Organic farming; loess and lime sandstone soils; fermentation occurs in open vats, with slow and gentle pressing, followed by 1 year in used acacia; bottled unfined/unfiltered with zero added So2; 11.5% ABV
Winemaker: Hannes Schuster
Rosi Schuster began her eponymous Burgenland label in 1979. It wasn't until 2005 that her son Hannes joined her at the winemaking helm and influenced Rosi to pursue organic farming of their Sankt Laurent, Blaufränkisch and Rotburger (Zweigelt). They are a formidable team, producing some of the most enticing reds in the region today, like this Sankt Laurent (also known as Saint Laurent).
But first, what the hell is Saint Laurent? Good question. No one really knows. There is conjecture that it has a Pinot Noir parent, or at the very least they are related. This one from Hannes and Rosi is super earthy and minerally, with a subtle hit of funk, dark cherries and earth on the nose, hinting at a big rich wine, which it turns out not to be. Rather, it is a touch feral, light, tangy, all sour cherries, black plums and leather, flecked with a salty, mineral mouthfeel. Natty but silky stuff - it's no surprise that Sankt Laurent is probably one of the many grape children of Pinot Noir.