2018 Love & Squalor Rosé of Gewurz ‘Frayed Knot'
Region: Willamette Valley < Oregon
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: certified organic farming, Sunnyside vineyard, own-rooted vines, 30+ years old; 11.5% Abv; 60 cases
Winemaker: Matt Berson
As we wrapped up a tasting of Matt Berson’s exciting lineup of Riesling and Pinot Noir, he pulled out a last bottle, a rosé, something that started as a one-off experiment. He poured it in the glass and we immediately perked up at the aroma. All kinds of cinnamon and clove-y spice, apple, tropical fruit and rose poured out of the glass before I even had a chance to stick my nose in it. Whoa, we were thinking – wtf isthis? On the palate there was a touch of tannin, a musky note, sweet apple, peach and spices all over the place. It was familiar but hard to place, probably because it was our first time ever tasting a Gewurztraminer orange wine – who knew? But it was so good we snapped up a few cases on the spot. Matt’s experiment – just 60 or so cases per year – immediately found a following and he’s been making it ever since. He calls it a rosé because the skins of Gewurz have a pinkish hue, though it is technically an orange wine, having been fermented on the skins instead of pressed. Like unicorn tears filtered through angel hair, this wine is what myths are made of. Get some while the getting’s good.