2018 Frontonio 'Microcósmico’ Macabeo
Region: Valdejalón < Spain
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Organic, dry-farmed old vines on clay-limestone. Fermented in stainless steel tank, aged in both tank and used barrels with batonnage for texture; bottled unfined/unfiltered with minimal added So2; 13% ABV; 540 cases
Winemaker: Mario López
Frontonio is a new project of three Aragonese friends, Fernando Mora, Master of Wine, Mario López, winemaker of Bodegas Borsao, and Francisco Latasa, lawyer and expert in international trade. The wine is named after Saint Frontonio, the patrón saint of Épila, a town in Valdejalón, North-East Spain, where it is produced. Legend has it that Saint Frontonio was beheaded by the Romans. His body was buried in a cemetery and his head was thrown into the River Ebro near Zaragoza. Miraculously, his head was later found going upstream along the banks of the River Jalón in Épila. Likewise, this limited production of “micro” wine is the result of rowing against the stream. It is also something of a miracle, as the wine is made in a humble garage.
Medium-bodied, with lush, silky yellow fruit - golden apple, ripe peach, Meyer lemon - zippy acidity, minerals, and a pleasant bitter fennel thing at the end. A really stunning, versatile white that punches way above its class. Tested with halibut in a Spanish almond sauce - divine!