2018 Domaine Brand Electric Chardonnay Acid Test
Region: Bockenheim < Pfalz < Germany
Grapes: Chardonnay, Riesling
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified organic + biodynamic; 110-year-old, dry-farmed vineyards planted in limestone loess soils at 1,300 m (4,300 ft); stainless steel fermentation; bottled unfined/unfiltered with 35ppm So2; 12% ABV
Winemaker: Daniel and Jonas Brand
The brothers Brand, Daniel and Jonas, have brought natty winemaking to the far northern Pfalz, a cool-climate, limestone-rich, totally overlooked region. The more “famous” Pfalz (this is relative) is the Mittelhaardt region further south, with bigger estates and some wine tourism, but there is a gritty, working agricultural feel in the north. Over the years, the Brand brothers have quietly experimented more and more with zero-zero winemaking, as in this Electric Chardonnay Acid Test, a totally unexpected combo of 90% Chardonnay planted on the classic limestone soils of the region, and 10% Riesling for an extra jolt of acidity. Forget what you think you know about Chardonnay, this tastes nothing like the buttery, round, rich mommy juice you’ve had before. It’s rocky, minerally and lean, but not mean - there is a suppleness to the golden apple and pear fruit that makes it extremely interesting and food-friendly. A great all-purpose white for your holiday dinner table.