2017 Kikelet Hárslevelü Birtok
2017 Kikelet Hárslevelü Birtok $26
Region: Tarcal < Tokaj < Hungary
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: organic, dry-farming; volcanic soils covered with a layer of loess;whole cluster ferment, aged in neutral French and Hungarian oak; bottled unfined, unfiltered, with minimal added So2, 12% ABV
Winemaker: Stéphanie Berecz
LADY IN CHARGE: Stéphanie Berecz is a winemaker from the Loire and Bordeaux who came to Hungary for a three month stint with Tokaj, but fell in love with the region and her future husband, Zsolt. She stayed, and they founded the Kikelet Pince estate near the town of Tokaj, where Stéphanie makes her wines in a light, fresh Loire style.
This wine, from a small, female-founded and run estate, combines so many of our favorite elements! Extreme volcanic soil, weird grape/region (Hárslevelű+ Hungary), female winemaker, and crazy minerality. The Hárslevelűgrape can be round, fleshy and honied, but in Stéphanie’s hands, it’s all about the rocks. It smells pretty and floral, but this baby is bone-dry with a racy crispness, bright, limey acidity and crushed rock. Actually, it tastes like a lime-heavy margarita on the rocks. Move over Tequila, make ours a Hárslevelű-rita!