2017 Domaine de la Chevalerie Borgueil Diptyque
Region: Borgueil < Loire Valley < France
Grapes: Cabernet Franc
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified organic (2008) and certified biodynamic (Demeter 2010) farming; 25-30 year old vines on gravelly, sandy soils; aged 4-6 months in concrete vats with a small percentage in neutral oak; unfined/unfiltered; 10ppm SO2 added; 12% ABV
Winemaker: Stéphanie Caslot
LADY IN CHARGE: Two sisters! Stéphanie Caslot has been running the show at Domaine de la Chevalerie (in the family since 1640!) since 2008, when she completed the conversion to organic farming. In 2018 was joined by younger sister Laurie. Their brother manages the vineyards, but it is the ladies making – and selling – the wine.
I’ve been a fan of the Chevalerie wines for a while, having had the pleasure of visiting Stéphanie at the estate a few years ago. She looks the part of the quintessential French gamine, but don’t be fooled by her perfect pixie cut or that spot-on red lipstick – this one serious vigneron, who considers herself the “wine watchwoman, the guardian” while her brother, “the gardener”, looks after the vines and the vineyard. They focus on Cab Franc wines, producing several serious, age-worthy cuveés, but we love the ‘Diptyque’, their vin de soif. Made from the younger vines (25+ years) and subject to a very light maceration, this wine is meant to be an easy, approachable Bistrot wine. Which is exactly what it is – medium-bodied, friendly tannins, bright acid, and a plush mouthful of crunchy red and black fruit, violets, pepper and earth. So perfect, chilled, with pretty much any dinner you’re putting out on a Tuesday night – tacos, roast chicken, bean soup, you name it….