2017 Coffele Soave Classico 'Castel Cerino'
Region: Soave < Veneto < Italy
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified biodynamic farming, volcanic/limestone soils, from high-altitude vineyards, aged in stainless steel; 12.5% ABV
Winemaker: Alberto and Chiara Coffele
Mass production in the 1980’s gave Soave a bad name, but this version from siblings Alberto and Chiara Coffele proves that when done right, Soave still has game. The Coffele’s farm biodynamically and the grapes for this wine are from just one small, 1.25 hectare plot, so already the amount of work that goes into this bottle is leagues beyond most Soave on the market. I visited the estate two summers back and walked the vineyards, worked only by a single horse and plow. Chiara is a total boss, running the biodynamic family estate with the help of her mom Giovanna, and even venturing out into social projects like the collaboration with Cascina Alba Terra, of which we're also big supporters.
While wines from Soave are well-known in Italy, here I feel like the region is still under-the-radar, which is a shame because legit Soave bottlings have incredible minerality and racy stone fruit, making them a dinner pairing dream, plus they age beautifully. Soave's secret comes down to the GARGANEGA varietal and the UNIQUE SOILS. Soave is the only appellation situated on active volcanic soils (basalt volcanic - black) intertwined with pure white Limestone. Back & White terroir in one! The Garganega grape, which already possesses characteristics of elegant acidity, juicy mid-palate, lemongrass, almonds & mineral aromatics, gains even more depth and personality from the soils. This is such a pretty, crisp white, with yellow peach, golden apple and nectarine overlaying a bitter almond note and bright acidity. Pair with roast chicken!