2016 Samuel Tinon Furmint ‘Birtok’

Region: Tokaj < Hungary
Grapes: Furmint
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: organic farming, tuffa, obsidian, with limestone and clay rocks from the Határi vineyard and loess solis from Mt. Tokaj, vine age up to 90 yrs, pressed directly after harvest and fermented and aged briefly in old Hungarian oak barrels, 13%.
Winemaker: Samuel Tinon

Cristin here: Samuel Tinon, a Frenchman who married a Brit and worked in Chile, Australia, Texas and Italy, brought the world with him to Tokaj, and now he’s taken Tokaj and brought it to the world. Its Cristin again with this month’s story. I had the luck to visit Samuel and his wife, Mathilde at their home in Olaszliszka (Tokaj) and have lunch with them and their three children but that is not the reason why I love his wine. No matter whether its dry or sweet, each bottle makes you seriously contemplate why you would ever drink anything else. Its delightful, of course, but more than just delicious – it’s a journey through past, present and future in a bottle and it makes you think. They’ve just started producing the Birtok - a blend of their two different vineyards – less serious, but with all of the depth of flavor of his single vineyards. It’s got a smokey minerality you expect from these volcanic soils, but an unexpected saltiness that makes it go down a little too easy. Über textural with ripe fruit that doesn’t overpower – the mouthfeel is huge and takes this patio sipper to the next level. Serve not too cold, with green curry, roasted butternut squash or a salad with lemon vinaigrette.