2015 Nino Barraco Pignatello
Region: Marsala < Sicily < Italy
Grapes: PignatelloVineyard/Cellar Stats: Organic farming; fermentation in steel with
indigenous yeasts with long maceration on the skins (10 days) then
aged 8 months in steel and 18 months in bottle before bottling,
unfined/unfiltered, with no added SO2; zero-zero; 12.5% ABV
Winemaker: Nino BarracoLike so many new generation Italian winemakers, Nino took over his
family’s vineyards in 2004 and started working organically, using only
the native grapes of his Western Sicily, and focusing on single
vineyard expressions of the grapes. Note: in Western Sicily, this is
all very rare. As are his wines, which really taste like Marsala, a
barren stretch of coastline with dry winds, golden light and an
omnipresent sea. Nino’s wines are aromatically intense, mysteriously
light and incredibly saline.
Like this wine, a pure version of the local Pignatello grape (also
known as Perricone) from the contrada Giudeo vineyard in Marsala.
Nino is one of the very few producers making Pignatello without mixing
it with other varieties. Ruby red in color, it smells like a basket
of summer berries. But in the mouth, the fruit is more autumnal: sour
cherry and crunchy red fruit with salty notes and chiseled tannins.
It is elegant and evolved, but still vibrant and fresh, calling for a
slight chill, some lovely food and friends around the table.