2019 Gasparda Rosso 'Suetta'
Region: Piemonte < Italy
Grapes: Barbera, Grignolino, Freisa
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Biodynamic farming; marl and white limestone soils; field blend, co-fermented, direct press, aged in fiberglass; no filtering or clarification; no additions of any kind, including So2; zero-zero; 41 cases; 13.5% ABVWinemaker: Roberto Salvaneschi
The Salvaneschi family has been making wine for 3 generations, but it
wasn’t until 2010 that they decided to produce their own label and
actually sell it. In 2013, Patritzia and Pietro Salvaneschi purchased
the Cascina Gasparda farmhouse and its 7 hectares of vineyards, which
they run with the help of their sons Roberto and Mauro. They also set
up a farmstay that can accommodate 20 people with a family philosophy
of eating and preparing what they grow - “zero food (and wine) miles”.
For the family, everything starts with respect, health, and rhythms
of the natural environment as well as the respect and health of those
who will walk through their vineyards and are nourished from the
products of their land. Roberto is honest when he says to live as a
winemaker you have to want it and it has to come from within - it
cannot be approached just as business or because it’s in fashion.
Wines that are purely business lack soul. As a boy he disliked
viticulture, probably because it was an obligatory weekend job and not
a choice at the time. But the connection to nature was always there
for him and he was lured away from a technical design job and back to
the vineyards when his family acquired the property. Roberto’s key
principle is safeguarding and preserving the soil for future
generations. He’ll never wax on and participate in fake
storytelling...he’ll only ask that you walk the vineyards and explore
the wines to truly understand their unique expression.
The vineyard from which this wine hails was planted in 1969, with many different grapes in the same vineyard and even in the same row, a mix of Barbera, Grignolino, Freisa and probably a few other randos. Roberto says that Suetta is a wine without tricks, from grapes harvested and vinified all together, one that defines that specific place and vintage. It's a bright ruby red in the glass, with classic autumnal notes of ripe plum, black pepper, violet, and leather, finishing with earthy undertones and a healthy tannic grip. Lighter and fresher than a straight up Barbera, this wine definitely needs food but is light enough for a slight chill and a simple pasta or veggie dish. No big piece of meat required to tame this cute this cute little Piemontese critter.