2019 Jochen Beurer 'Schilfsandstein' Riesling
Region: Württemberg < Germany
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Biodynamic farming (Demeter-certified since
2008); Sandstone soils; fermented and aged in stainless steel; bottled unfined/unfiltered with minimal added So2; 12.5% ABV
Winemaker: Jochen Beurer
Jochen Beurer is an interesting character -- an ex-European BMX
champion and all around bad boy, he's now a hard core biodynamic
farmer who crafts wines of a sort of brutal purity: crystalline,
stony, structured expression of rocks and stones. The small estate is
located in Swabia (Baden-Württemberg), at the farthest southern end of Germany. Here the Beurer family has farmed the land in Kernen, just
outside of Stuttgart, for generations. In 1997, Jochen, his wife
Marion, and father Sigfried set out on their own, making and bottling
the wine for themselves. For the first two years, the winery literally
was a garage. In 2003, Jochen started experimenting with organic
farming, finally converting fully to biodynamics (Demeter certified).
His focus within his work centers around looking at the farming of the
grapes in the most holistic sense. From the animals, insects,
vegetation and animals in his environment, he pays attention to how
they are all working in synergy, and how that relationship feeds the
vines he farms. Everything he does in the cellar is super natural and
hands off, which is rare in these parts. And the wines are stunning.
Especially his single-vineyard “premier cru” bottlings named after the soil types, like this lovely “Schilfsandstein” cuvee. It comes from 40+ year old vines on soils of Schilfsandstein, a type of sandstone (in German “sandstein”) formed from ancient sea beds. Linear, angular and stylish, while also somehow airy, bouncy and playful at the same time. His 2019 vintage might be the best yet, Riesling at its most brilliant. Forgot what you think you know about Riesling. This one is not sweet at all, but is full of tension, acidity, minerals, crisp pears and ancient soul. A gorgeous, very special and very food-friendly wine.