2020 Contravento 'Onda Anomala' Rosato

2020 Contravento 'Onda Anomala' Rosato

Regular price $28

Region: Abruzzo < Italy

Grapes: Montepulciano D' Abruzzo

Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified organic/biodynamic farming; limestone
soils; 2 days on skins then direct pressed to stainless steel for fermentation; bottled unfined/unfiltered with no added So2; zero-zero; 12% ABV; 125 cases

Meaning “upwind” in Italian, Controvento is a 5 hectare vineyard in the Fosso delle Farfalle, a nature reserve known for its butterfly population, in the Rocca San Giovanni region of Abruzzo just kilometers off the Adriatic Sea.  We had the pleasure of visiting the very sweet Enzo at his farm this summer, and were in awe of the amount of work this man does.  He farms the entire property himself, no help, no machines, and makes no less than 20 different wines, all small batch of course.  His happy certified-organic vines are cooled by the salty sea breeze a stone's throw away, and zero chemicals of any kind are ever used. Enzo’s philosophy of wine making is strict, as he’s trying to make wines like his grandfather did, in the purest possible form, with nothing added, nothing taken away.   And he refuses to increase his quantities because then he wouldn't be able to do it all himself while also enjoying his life.  He'd have to make compromises, like buying grapes, and then the wines would no longer be his own, an expression of his land and his hard work.  While fairly new to the scene, the wines are in high demand, and thus, hard to get enough or keep in stock.

'Onda Anomala' (translation: abnormal wave) is his deep pink rosato that spends two days on the skins (he does another version that gets just one day on skins) before pressing.  It's dark and textural, and so energetic, channeling all the glorious sun and oceanic breezes of its place by the sea in Abruzzo.  You get tart strawberry, sour watermelon candy (you know, the kind you binged on in college because it was 'fat free') and blood orange, atop tangy (perhaps a bit volatile) acidity, salty freshness and barely-there fizz.   A bit crazy, but crazy good.

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