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Most nights we love an easy, goes-with-everything (including the cooking process) glou-y table wine, but sometimes you just want the ceremony of popping open special a bottle of wine. And the holidays, with their myriad occasions to impress friends and family, are a perfect excuse to pick up a couple of bottles that are outside of your everyday budget. But they must be clean, because nothing says “backfire” like your boss’s hangover mood after the baller (Roundup-laden) BIG RED you brought to her house for dinner. Included are three special reds from classic regions, with the age and structure you want and without the crap you don’t: