2013 Mondo Antico 'Pernione' Pinot Nero
Region: Oltrepo Pavese < Lombardia< Italy
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Organic/biodynamic farming, dry farmed, silt, sand and white clay soils; fermented on the skins in steel for one month, then rests in tank for 2 years and 1 additional year in bottle before release; zero-added So2; 100 cases; 14% ABV
Winemaker: Dario Tiraboschi
Nestled in the foothills of Oltrepo Pavese, Fattoria Mondo Antico is a 26-hectare farm with only 4 hectares under vine – the rest is grain for pasta (they grind their own flour), livestock (to make their own salumi and cheese) and vegetables. Dario Tiraboschi and his family farm their land organically (certified) but really more biodynamic these days. Though the area is hot and humid, they chose to plant the grapes on south-facing south to ensure there is enough wind blowing down the hill to minimize any antiparasitic interventions that are essential to defend the vines. By using “simple” agricultural techniques like this, as well as manure and veggie compost, they feel like they’re able to coax the terroir out of the wines. In the cellar, Dario intervenes as minimally as possible - there is no oak or sulfur in the cellar. combination of simple agronomic techniques combined with minimal cellar intervention, allowing, as he says, “the greatest possible relationship between the environment and what is in the bottle”. The winery used to be part of the Oltrepo Pavese DOCG, but backed out, making a statement that they were making very different wines than the other producers in the area. I.E, it’s a pretty conventional area and they wanted to differentiate themselves -- not much natty wine here. Like this Pinot Nero (Noir, as we know it) that is intriguing and disorienting. The vintage is 2013, so its evolved and fully integrated, more brick-red than ruby in hue, but the fruit is bright, tart and popping with acidity. We love the juxtaposition of the funky mushroom and black tea notes on the nose with the sweet, creamy, lush red fruit on the palate. Like if Russian River Pinot went to Florence, studied art and philosophy, then came back enlightened – as in 50lbs lighter.