2017 Didier Montchovet Coteaux Bourguignons Gamay

Region: Burgundy < France

Grapes: Gamay

Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Demeter-certified biodynamic, conserves rainwater and repurposes throughout the year, operates the wine cellar by gravity only; 70 year-old vines on stony clay-limestone soils; after hand harvest, fruit goes into vat whole bunch for 8 days fermentation; aged in enamel-lined cement vat for 6-8 months, then bottled under screw cap (to preserve “purity” of wine and encourage drinking now) with <20ppm So2; 12%ABV

Winemaker: Didier Montchovet

Farming biodynamically, Didier has slowly grown his estate from just half a hectare to 9.2, keeping with the same vineyards-first philosophy and turning out stunning wines with low intervention.  An oddball for sure, this is Gamay-based Bourgogne from 70-year-old vines – and the only Gamay in these parts, 6km from Pommard in Bouze-les-Beaune.  Super floral and vivid while still maintaining precision and elegance, it’s like grown-up Beaujolais, with crisp cranberry, raspberry and sour cherry fruit wrapped around a core of invigorating acidity, silky tannins coating your tongue like a lollipop.  Maybe not fireworks like Beaujolais, but everlasting Gamay love.