2019 Le Fraghe 'Traccia di Bianco' Garganega
Region: Bardolino < Veneto < Italy
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified organic farming, hand harvested, whole cluster fermentation and aging in concrete tanks, bottled unfined/unfiltered with minimal added So2; 13% ABV
Winemaker: Matilde Poggi
Nothing says Italy! and lake vacation! like Lake Como. Take away George Clooney and high prices, and you have Lake Garda, which is actually the largest lake in Italy and also happens to be located right between the Trentino and Veneto wine regions. It’s the latter that is the origin of this wine, and the vineyards lie very near the lake itself, in the town of Bardolino. We've big fans of the everyday-drinking organic wine from the young and talented Matilde Poggi, but her higher-end, concrete-aged Garganega really blew us away.
Traccia di Bianco comes from a selection of grapes, deemed to be the best, that are left on the vine a little longer than the rest of the Garganega. At harvest they are pressed whole cluster and only the free run juice continues to to cement tank for fermentation. After fermentation the wine rests on its lees, with occasional stirring, until it is bottled unfined and unfiltered. Matilde’s intuitive winemaking brings incredible life and texture to the somewhat neutral Garganega grape. While there is no skin contact, the lees contact leaves the wine slightly cloudy (while also stabilizing it) and adds a creamy mouthfeel. Mature fruit notes of white peach and guava dominate the nose and white flowers, honeysuckle and saffron round out the palate. Beautiful just by itself, we would also enjoy this wine with hard cheese, Provençal bouillabaisse or a tagine.