2017 Antonelli Trebbiano Spoletino 'Trebium'
Region: Montefalco < Umbria< Italy
Grapes: Trebbiano Spoletino
Vineyard/Cellar Stats: Certified organic farming; vineyards on limestone/clay soils surrounded by forest and olive groves; fermented in old, large oak barrels with no temp control, then aged on the lees for 6 months and in bottle for 4 months; 13% ABV
Winemaker: Fillipo Antonelli
We love discovering grape varietals, while also learning something new in the process. Like this obscure white grape, Trebbiano Spoletino, from Umbria, which grows around the hilltop towns of Montefalco and Spoleto, near Perugia. The confusing thing is that Trebbiano covers a whole host of Italian white grape varieties, unrelated to one another – and most of which suck, known for producing vast quantities of dull, flabby whites. Blame Trebbiano Toscana, aka France’s Ugni Blanc, for that. But (and here’s the “learning something new” part), Trebbiano has many faces, exceptions to the dull Trebbiano rule, that make some pretty cool wines. Like Marche’s Verdicchio, which also happens to be the Trebbiano found in Soave and Lugana. And Trebbiano Abruzzese (in the Wines of Anarchy pet’nat this month). The third is our friend here, Trebbiano Spoletino. None are genetically related, nor do they taste alike.
A long-winded introduction this lovely Trebbiano Spoletino, from our friend Filippo Antonelli, whose family has been cultivating grapes and olives (certified organic since 2012) since the 1860s. This is lime green juice that smells like flowers and honey, and tastes faintly exotic and tropical, with a pleasantly bitter grapefruit finish. There’s a round fleshiness on the palate tempered by the racy acidity. A delicious and substantial wine, meant for food.